On this cloudy Sunday Afternoon, I find it too humid and hot to eat, and too lazy to frolick outside in the lack of sunshine.. so I've decided to devote this day to my Iced Coffee and a post about the orgins of Lolita fashion, and how its becoming bigger everyday in America.
It is said that Lolita style was created in the mid-1970's when the clothing brands
Pink House and
Milk began making more 'western'-style dresses and frilly seperates based on the American tv shows like
Little House on the Prairie. They were made with housewives in mind that wanted to wear something less traditional around the house. But since I was born in the 80's, the idea of Lolita (in the fashion sense) wasn't even known to me until the mid 1990's. But this version of Lolita that I've come to know is much different that their predecessors. Their style tends be suited in dresses with bright, ditsy floral prints, and lace pieces..its a little girl look. When this trend came about, there were much arguments on where the orgins
really started and if this was a positive or negative direction for women in that time.
As most americans know, the 60's was a time of sexual revolution and feminism. I feel that Japanese women experiencing this cultural shift wanted a way to liberate themselves in a way they were never before able. But when the idea of 'Lolita' came to America, we immediately thought of Vladimir Nabokov's novel
Lolita (1955), in which he tells the story of a sexually promiscuous prepubescent teen that seduces her mother's boyfriend (and eventually husband) by using her sweetness and girly charm. It was from this misconception that has taken America so long to jump on the bandwagon. But now that more and more Lolita's are educating themselves and others on the true orgins of this style, it gives the trend a chance to grow at an immense speed! On a side note: I still havent read Lolita, but I've seen both the
1962 (Stanley Kubrick) and
1997 (Adrian Lyne) film adaptations of the novel, and enjoyed them both quite a bit. Its tuely a sad story in the end, but a good story none the less.
Unlike
Pink House,
Milk tends to design their clothing with the Gothic Lolita in mind. The main misconception with the style of Gothic Lolita is that somehow we immediately think frilly 'french maid-esque' outfits with hair doilies and lace gloves. Okay, so this is half right... Gothic Lolita, Elegant Lolita, and the like tend to follow in the path of a more
Victorian or
Rococo period style and use lots of 1 color (as opossed to mixed prints as Natural Kei, or Punk)..
So we know when and how the trend started, now lets take a closer look at the actual dressings for each style genre and their sub-genres:
CLASSIC LOLITA
Right now, this is the style that is most recognized across the globe. The trend is simple yet compiled with lots of lace trims, ruffles, and sofisticated prints (if any print at all, but usually not). The Victorian Era and some Rococo period style influences this style of lolita. Always having a full skirt, long sleeve blouse (with plenty of ruffles), and some sort of head piece. Carrying extra accessories is optional but highly encouraged. Some American Classic Lolita motifs include the Gibson Girl profile, whose character was considered to stand for feminine beauty, independence, and personal fulfilment.
Dressings: Knee Length (or longer) skirts with peticoat and knee length bloomers. Bloomers are not a must, but they tend to add a doll-like appearance to the entire outfit (It is prefered to look as doll-like as possible). I've seen this calssic skirt in many different colors and I dont think this specifically matters so much, but bows in various areas brings this simple style some "oompf". Long sleeve or Short puff sleeve blouses with ruffles down the front and a high neck collar and/or a tied bow (usually of the blouse fabric) pair perfectly with the skirt. Stockings or Knee highs are a must. I've seen some really cute print ones, but it is not necessary. Different styles of Mary Jane shoes can be worn, For the Classic look, usually simple black mary janes will do. Accessories can range from lace bow barettes, bow headband, lace doily (on top of the head and tied under the chin). Many Lolitas in Harajuku are seen with a cute mini rolling luggage. This can have an allover print or trims that match the outfit (must match the outfit!). Also parasols are common (these are especially helpful on hot summer days).
Hair: Lolita hair across the board most commonly follow the guidlines of full, straight cut bangs with the back and sides having lots of long, loose curls or tightly curled ringlets (doll-like). Twin ponytails are also worn low on either side of the head with bangs.
Makeup: Classic style of makeup is a fresh, powdery foundation, no blush or eyeshadow is required, and only the eyes are lined in black with false lashes emphasised at the outer corners. A nude or pinkish/natural lipstick is worn.
Brands: Mary Magdalene,
Victorian Maiden,
Innocent World
Male Counterpart: The masculine version of the Classic Lolita style also follows along the lines the Victorian Era/Rococo period fashions. In japan its called Oji (Boystyle), but Americans more commonly know this as Kodona, Dandy, or
Aristocrat. They will usually wear long slacks or knickers with stockings in dark colors, long sleeve blousy shirts (almost Shakespearean), a vest in solid colors or brocade or in fabric matching his female partner. His accessories with more than likely include a top hat or news boys cap, buckled dress shoes, sometimes a cane, but I see this more as a Gothic accessory. The guys hair can be parted down the middle and worn long, or long with a side part. Kodona clothing is very hard to find, but there are a few shops that are starting to incorporate men's needs into their stores. But Kodona isnt only for guys, girls can wear this too!
Classic Kadona (boy style):
GOTHIC LOLITA
Much like the Classic Lolita trend, the styling is the same, but with a lot more lacy trims and black is used as a main color almost every time. Other colors can be dark, like Classic but not many multi-colored prints are used. Usually a brocade fabric reminiscent of the Rococo (Victorian's gaudy cousin) period serves as a more common fabric, than a simple, solid color with a print.
Dressings:Same styled pieces as the Classic Lolita, but with a ton more lace trims, ruffles, ribbons, pearls, brooches, etc. Here the blouse can be lacy, and lace gloves are more commonly worn. Shoes range from Mary Janes to Platform boots, to T-strap heels...all depending on how the style should be viewed. This style is slightly more sexy than the Classic doll-like look, but can still be just as cute. Lots of antique looking silver jewelry (usually crosses) are used here, with other large stones. Mini tophats are nearly a must here, or at least a lacy head covering, or large bow.
Hair: Same as above, the hair tends to have a straight or tightly curled ringlets (doll-like), with straight cut bangs.
Makeup: Foundation is usually worn several shades lighter than the natural skin color. Again the cheeks are left blush-less and no eye shadow is worn, but usually the eyeliner is thicker and sometimes smudged or "smokey". Black lipstick can be worn, or a nude lip. This all depends on the image she wants to portray. The makeup in the photo below is a bit
Visual Kei, but I'm sure you get the idea..
Brands:Moi Même Moitié,
h.NAOTO (also great for Punk Lolita)
Male Counterpart:Guys basically look the same as the Classic Aristocrat, but I havent seen many men's Gothic style in knickers and tights. Mostly (if not only) Black is worn inthe same fabrics as the female, with dress shoes, boots, or platforms. Here, the guy's outfit seems to be draped a bit differently, with longer coats or jackets worn with lace. Long sleeve blouse (almost always in black) with ruffles and a high collar is great here. Many chunky antiqued silver rings are worn with or without large jewels. Necklaces and/or brooches are a must, with a top hat and long flowing hair. Sometimes they wear lace gloves, but any glove will do, I think. Many times they guy will also wear lighter, powdery foundation with eyeliner, sometimes with black lipstick, sometimes without depending on how he wants to be portrayed.
Sub-genre: ELEGANT GOTHIC LOLITA (EGL)
Exaclty the same as Gothic Lolita, but mostly using Off White or Eggshell as the main colors. Sometimes the hair can be a sandly blonde, or strawberry blonde, but the makeup is usually kept dark. Sometimes this style can look a bit Little Bow Peep-ish, but it doesnt have to.. Lots, and I mean tons of lace trim is used, along with pearls, bows, and ribbons. Mary Janes and Platforms are worn here. The photos below are an example of EGL and Kadona (boys style):
SWEET LOLITA
Is comprised of the same clothing stylings as the Classic Lolita, but this is the more light-hearted trend, only using pastel colors. Lots of ruffles and baby animals and sweets prints are used here to emphasis the cuteness and girlyness of the wearer.
Dressings: Always pastel colors and some sort of 'sweet' allover print. Someitmes solid colors are used, but usually in the style of Alice from Alice in Wonderland. Jumper dresses are big here as well, trimmed in same fabric ruffles and scalloped lace. Printed stockings are worn here in polka dots, stripes, floral vines, bows, anything cute that fits the outfit really. Also frilly aprons are used here over the skirts, sometimes with a heart-shaped pocket. Lots of bows and hearts are worn here, with costume jewelry and accessories that have stuffed animal themes, plastic candies, cakes/pies, hearts, bows, and anything "sweet". Mostly Mary Janes are worn here with bows, and Platform flats with bows. The usual rolling luggage is toted around here with a heart or teddy bear-shaped purse. But sometimes you will see a backpack worn with a stuffed animal peaking out, or a stuffed animal as the back pack. A stuffed animal is usually carried in one form or another with this style.
Hair: Twin ponytails with bangs are big here, especially with the polytails tied high on the sides of the head. This gives a more girly look. Also tight ringlets are worn for a doll-like appearence.
Makeup: The foundation is kept light (but not as light at Gothic) and powdery, with no eyeshadow but eyes are lined in black with fake, doll-like eyelashes. Here blush is usually worn in a pale pink or light coral in doll-like circles. But it is imprtant to not make the blush look like Raggedy Ann, as the blush should be kept light as a hinted color. Lips can be nude, with a little gloss, or in a natural pink or coral color (with gloss).
Brands:Baby, The Stars Shine Bright,
Angelic Pretty,
Sweet Rococo <--=(An American Brand!)
^ ___ ^ !
Male Counterpart:Not used to seeing guys dress in pastel colors, but I found 1 guy who was brave enough!
NATURAL KEI, or LOLITA (depending who you ask)
This is where it all began in the mid 1970's. A lighthearted, frilly change from the norm, with plenty of girlyness to go around. Deep rooted in western (and in the West of America) farmer-esque culture, a sense of natural fabrics and florals mixed with a tint of Equestrian can be seen as an influence. Natural Kei is often compared to the
Mori Girl (Forest Girl), who seems too bohemian (to me) to be considered Lolita style.
Dressings: Prairie skirts in many layers and ruffles, simple and flowing. Ditsy floral prints, and in natural or neutral colors. Cochet pieces like to make an appearance here, from sweaters to hair pieces, to skirt trims. Ususally full dresses or full jumpers are worn over ruffled skirts. Long sleeve shirts with rounded collars are also worn. Usually suede boots or crochet boots/shoes are worn here, but you can pair the outfit with a natural colored Mary Jane as well.
Hair:
Sometimes with bangs, sometimes without, but almost always with braided pigtails. Other hairstyles can be kept long and wavy, with a center or side part (but that is more of a bohemian look). Hair ornaments are usually large blossoms or wildflowers, or a wide brimmed hat and ribbon tie would complete this look. Also side slung bags and oversized sweaters work well as layering pieces.
Makeup: As natural as you can be! A shade of foundation matching your skin color, or slightly sunkissed can be used. Black or heavy eyeliner should not be used with this style, but mascara would be great to bring out the eyes (no false lashes). A natural blush color can be used, but is not needed. And the lips are left natural or Coral, but not glossy.
Brands: So far, I've only found
Pink House to carry this style... all the rest have been Mori.
(- _____ -;; ) Not that Mori isnt cute, but not what I was looking for.
Male Counterpart: Sadly I havent found any male Natural Kei yet, but I'm sure I saw some Mori guy in an ad about a year ago...
PUNK LOLITA Thia style seems to be a mashup of both Classic Lolita and Visual Kei. With mostly black, with splashes of bold colors worn here. Sometimes piece of the look are a little tattered and mended together with large safety pins or laces (think British Punk with a Lolita twist), but not always. Sometimes the Classic Lolita look is kept, but in bolder plaid patterns. This form seem a lot less girly and fragile that the norm, usually taking on a slightly more punky DIY approach.
Dressings: The usual Lolita uniform in black with plaid patterings in bold colors, such as hot pink, red, cobalt blue, violet, etc. Add ripped stockings or ripped fishnets and combat boots and you've nearly completed the look! Accessories range from large safety pins randomly place, chains, zippers (in the clothing), crosses, patches (on vest/jackets), and a tie is a must. Mismatched knee highs or stockings (usually striped) work here as well..
Hair: Hair is can be black withor a darker redish-blonde with pieces of bold colorings, but its not limited to this. An entire head of a bold color works here as well. Also bangs are usually worn, though I've seen some messy side parts and side ponytails. Definately a lot of fullness and height/teasing will benefit this trend.
Makeup: For the most part, follows the Gothic Lolita look of light foundation, heavy black liner (smudged if you like), black or red lipstick (or natural), and blush is used if prefered.
Brands:h.NAOTO
Male Counterpart: Luckily this was an easy style for the masculine looks and is just as common as Aristocrat.
There is SO MUCH to explain about all the different kinda of lolita genres, so I will have to stop the post here and continue on with the lesser known, or sub-genre's at another time.
Until then...
~<3
